MY MATERNAL GRANDPARENTS immigrated to the U.S. from Ireland. Family gatherings are still celebrated with corned beef, cabbage, Irish soda bread, Irish music and, of course, “a drop of the creature,” as my grandmother referred to libations.

So how in the world did my big Irish clan end up with an annual holiday Feliz Navidad party? Simple. The food. We all love Mexican food, and we’re certainly not alone. Tamales have become a holiday tradition throughout California.

As the hostess of our annual family gathering, usually held the Sunday before Christmas, I’ve always ordered the food. But this year I’m pulling out all stops and serving authentic, homemade tamales. Homemade . . . sort of. Thanks to a tamale-spreading class (see sidebar at left) at Mama Rita’s Authentic Mexican Cantina in Newbury Park, I’ll have “bragging rights” to a perfect meal.

Papenfus learned to cook while visiting her grandmother Rita Ochoa at her avocado ranch in Valley Center.

“She cooked all day every day,” Papenfus said. “She had to feed the workers three times a day. She rang a triangle bell and they came and ate, finished one meal and she would start preparing the next meal.

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TAMALE HEAVEN! Mama Rita's Authentic Mexican Cantina is in Dos Vientos Ranch at the Paraiso Town Center. (That's Mama Rita in the corner.)

“But the tamale spreading was special,” Papenfus continued. “The ritual often began before Thanksgiving. The deal was, if you didn’t help spread, you didn’t get any tamales.”

After shopping at the local Latina market, her grandmother would have all of the meats prepared, the cornhusks soaked and the chilies and mesa ground. Then six to eight family members and friends formed an assembly line spreading 25 to 40 dozen tamales over a two-day period.

“She took such pride in making people happy by cooking for them,” Papenfus recalled. Today, Mama Rita’s Authentic Mexican Cantina has prepared more than 300 dozen tamales during a single holiday season.

The fond memories and special moments spent in the kitchen became Papenfus’ inspiration for opening the beautiful bar and restaurant, lovingly named after her grandmother. The menu features Mexican cuisine favorites such as tacos ($14), burritos ($12), and enchiladas ($12). The carne asada ($16) served with avocado butter and mango salsa is incredibly tender, with a “melt in your mouth” avocado butter and just-enough-kick mango salsa. The full bar features a vodka and tequila tower that pours the alcohol at 5 degrees below zero.

The chips, salsa, and pico de gallo have a following of their own. Though I live in Westlake Village, I recently made the drive to Newbury Park so I could take Mama Rita’s chips and salsa to a party. Sure enough, at the event someone asked me, “Are these Mama Rita’s chips?” I gave a nod, the inquiring party munched on a chip and gave a satisfied nod; it had all been said.

Location: Mama Rita’s Authentic Mexican Cantina is in Dos Vientos Ranch at the Paraiso Town Center, 360 Via Las Brisas, #110, in Newbury Park. Hours: Tues-Thurs; 11:30am-10pm, Fri; 10am-10pm Sat-Sun;10am-9pm. // 805.499.9888 // MAP!